Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad
October 4-9, 2025
In 1986 on my first trip to the Southwest, I took a ride on the Cumbre & Toltec Railroad and fell in love with the Southwest, although 14 years would pass before I managed to move here. For my 70th birthday, my gift was to ride to C&TSRR once again. It was so much fun, the next year we decided to do it again, and persuaded our friends Tom and Ann to join us! We had only been off the train a few hours when the four of us decided to book another trip in 2025!
The leaves were already changing color near Hillsboro. We arrived just in time for a great lunch at the cafe.
We found a nice spot to camp on BLM land between Zia Pueblo and the Ojito Wilderness.
We even got to sit outside for a while!
The "Super Moon" that night put on quite a show!
Traveling light with the small camper this time, we decided to check out NM 537 as an alternative to US 84, which is perpetually clogged with testosterone-crazed Texans in urban assault vehicles. What a landscape! Not a single human habitation for over 60 miles! Just fields of chamisa dotted with oil rigs as far as the eye can see. Dulce (pop 2700) is the largest town on the massive Jicarilla Apache Reservation and is rumored to be home to a secret base underneath Archuleta Mesa where extraterrestrials experiment on humans with the military's help. Oh myyy, still so much to discover in the Land of Enchantment!
Tom and Dennis checking out Engine 488. The Cumbres and Toltec engine 488 is a K-36 class narrow gauge steam locomotive, built by the Baldwin Locomotive Works in 1925 for the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad. The number 488 is known for its impressive power and its recent overhaul that restored it to its original 1925 appearance.
We booked the parlor car as usual. Ann, Dennis and me enjoying the view (Photo by Tom C).
The obligatory selfie.
Listen to the engine chuffing as it climb 2400 feet from Chama to Cumbres Pass (10,200')! The train will consume 4000 gallons of water and three tons of coal to reach the top of the pass.
It wasn't long before brilliant golden aspens began showing their colors.
The main reason to book the parlor car is access to the rear platform, for views like this!
A waterfall of color along the route of the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad.
Crossing the Cascade Trestle, the highest bridge on the C&TSRR at 137 feet.
A patch of red aspens along the Rio de Los Piños.
Approaching Toltec Gorge.
The track is 600 feet above the gorge!
I don't know how we could be lucky enough to hit peak foliage three years in a row!
Both genes and seasonal conditions determine whether an aspen tree will turn red. Seasonal conditions that promote the most vibrant red aspens include fall days with warm sunny days and cool nights above freezing.
On a lark, Dennis and I veered off US 84 at Espanola to cross Los Alamos National Laboratory and the Valles Caldera National Preserve. We just missed a rock slide that closed NM 4 near Los Alaamos (Photo: Los Alamos Police Department).
It was a long but beautiful drive that gave us more time to enjoy the aspens as well as a picnic lunch at Battleship Rock.
Near Albuquerque, we were stuck in rush-hour traffic aggravated by heavy rain courtesy of Tropical Storm Priscilla. We lost another hour while highway crews cleared a mud flow from I-25. Well after dark we were very happy to tuck into a surprisingly nice spot overlooking the San Lorenzo Arroyo.
View from Emory Pass on the way home. It was a great trip, but too short! There's so much more to explore!
